Calculus. solutions by Hughes, Hallett, Gleason, McCallum

By Hughes, Hallett, Gleason, McCallum

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By Hughes, Hallett, Gleason, McCallum

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As can be seen from Figure 4 . 2 , the wave steepness 6 reaches a maximum value of about 0 . 1 when the wave age � is about 0 . 4 ; the wave steep­ ness drops off somewhat for younger waves ( � < 0 . 4 ) and diminishes Copyright American Geophysical Union. Transferred from Springer-Verlag in June 1992. Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves Coastal and Estuarine Studies Vol. 33 49 rapidly for older waves . The s o l id l ine drawn through the data points is the assumed relat ionship between the significant wave steepness and wave age.

For propagation over long distances, the waves seem to obey the linear theory of wave propagation from a limited initial disturbance; this theory leads to the concept of group velocity a s the signal velocity of the wave energy ( s ee section 2 . 4 ) . In practice, the c oncept of group velocity can be used to predict the arrival time o f waves at a coastal location if the posit ion of the storm over the ocean and the time of its occurrence are known . In operational nume r i c a l model s , the wave propagation i s gene r a l l y computed b y the t e r m c g .

Report on Progress in Phy s i c s , 3 8 , 667-729 . Barnett·, T . P . and J . C . Wilkerson, 1 96 7 : On the generation of wind waves a� inferred from a i r -borne measu rements of fetch-l imited spectra . ,J . Marine Research, 6 7 , 3 0 9 5 - 3 1 0 2 . Benny, D . J . , 1962 : Non-linear gravity wave interact ions . Mechanics , 14 , 5 7 7 - 5 8 4 . J. Fluid Croft, A . J . , 1 98 5 : A model f o r surface wave growth . Offshore and coastal Modell ing, Eds . Moscardini and Robson, Springer-Verlag, Lecture notes on coastal and estuarine studies, 12 , 16 5 - 1 8 5 .

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